Ferrara was our favourite of the three, largely down to the impressive d'Este castle, which comes complete with moat, drawbridge and dungeons where you can still see the graffiti carved by 16th century prisoners. We also saw the synagogue and former Jewish ghetto; the city has always had a strong Jewish presence and is the setting for one of the books I'm studying at the moment, Il Giardino dei Finzi-Contini. The garden itself is fictional, but it was interesting to see some of the other locations from the novel, although these represent a more sombre part of Ferrara's history. Today, the pace of life there seems quite chilled out; known as the 'city of bicycles', the sound of their wheels over the cobblestone streets made a welcome change from the whirring motorbikes which terrify me in Bologna.
Ravenna is famous for the mosaics which adorn its churches. They are so intricately detailed that it's hard to imagine the effort and time that must have gone into creating them, but on a less intellectual note, I liked how brightly coloured and shiny they were, barely having faded over the thousands of years. One of the chapels is decorated with hundreds of mosaic birds, a nice contrast to the depressing frescoes of Judgement Day which you normally see in churches. We were also able to visit the tomb of Dante, meaning I can definitely justify the trip as 'educational'. He died in Ravenna where he had sought political refuge, though apparently the Florentines are still trying to gain custody of his remains, which I think is a bit rich having exiled him in the first place.
Every time I visit a new city, I can't help imagining what my year abroad might have been like if I'd gone there instead. Ferrara, Modena and Ravenna all made good day trip destinations, but for me Bologna is the clear winner. They probably all have more to offer the longer you stay there, and the rain may have had something to do with it, but none of them quite matched Bologna's atmosphere or activity, and it was always comforting to return to its busy city centre in the evening - scary motorcyclists and all.
No comments:
Post a Comment